I'm still getting used to Octobers that aren't crisp and cool. I used to have to think about how to get myself to Halloween parties without my wings being crushed by a winter jacket. My costumes were almost always dresses and accessories that I already had, put together in new combinations, and unified by some face paint. They were attractive, but not warm. Nowadays, as I layer on the paint and shiny accessories, I have to think of how I'll survive the party without melting in the heat or sweating off my makeup.
Halloween is such an odd mix of superstition, religion, more modern traditions, and lots of mischief and weird stuff. It spans continents and cultures, and has taken on vastly different forms over the years. Some people love it, and find its darker nature a welcoming haven for their personality. Other revelers find it to be a liberating outlet for a side of their personality that only shows itself at this time of year. Other folks avoid it altogether, or come up with alternative events, seeing Halloween's pagan origins as irreconcilable with their own practice of spirituality. And still others, like me, find a paradoxical place in the middle, using the festivities for creative expression, opportunities to extend hospitality and cross-cultural understanding, and even, perhaps, to shine a little light in the darkness.
It was probably a mix of American commercialism and imperialism that first brought Halloween to Brazil. It's not commonly celebrated here, but this month you'll tend to see all things creepy and plastic appearing in party stores. People may put on a little hat or mask, or paint something festive for an event, but they'll rarely go all out on a costume like some of my creative friends in the U.S. do. Trick-or-treating happens, but isn't common. You will, however, see little kids dressed as vampires, witches, superheroes, or their favorite Disney princesses, showing up to parties at school--especially at English schools.
Halloween is often translated as Dia das Bruxas, or "Day of the Witches," which I think leads to unfortunate misconceptions. Although October 31st is an important day in the Wiccan religion and to those involved in the occult, to the majority of people who celebrate Halloween, it has nothing at all to do with witchcraft or spiritism. I've heard of Brazilian parents pulling their children out of English classes during October, or asking teachers what time the witchcraft begins so they can come and pick up the kids before it starts. Teachers do work all kinds of magic, it's true, but I've never known one to practice witchcraft with children!
It's possible that Carnival is in some ways to Brazilians the cultural equivalent of Halloween to Americans. Though both holidays have very different meanings and historical origins, there are a few things they have in common when it comes to modern commemorations. I've noticed that the amount of effort and energy spent on celebrating these holidays, respectively, seems comparable to some degree. There are parties and costumes, food and drink, and so planning happens well in advance. Both holidays involve a wild celebration on the eve of a more solemn religious day, Ash Wednesday and All Saints Day. In both countries, there are people who love and hate the holiday, and there are greatly varying levels of participation in between. To assume that all Brazilians passionately love Carnival would be as incorrect as to believe that Americans are worshiping evil spirits by carving pumpkins or giving out candy. For these and other holidays, I've learned to take what I like, adapt what I can, and leave the rest behind.
It was always fun to introduce the more lighthearted aspects of Halloween to my international students in Boston, especially at our school's Halloween party. One student fell in love with the holiday after winning the school's costume contest and going trick-or-treating with her host family that year. She has since brought the tradition of Halloween to her friends and family back in Brazil. And being that she happens to live in the next town over from Saint Joseph of the Fields, I've been a guest at her Halloween party for three years in a row.
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| Halloween by the pool--that's still new for me! |
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| With the right lighting, even a palm tree can be creepy! |
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| Love these shadows! |
It's a unique gathering. Her house is decked out with spider webs, plastic pumpkins, and a whole host of Halloween personalities--decorations which she picks up on sale during visits to the U.S. It's a family-friendly party, with little kids in costumes together with their parents. Everyone brings a dish to share, sometimes decorated for the occasion, like hot dogs in rolls that look like fingers, or a tuna pie (that's very Brazilian!) with olives forming a jack-o-lantern face. After a bit of hanging out, everyone takes to the streets for some trick-or-treating.
It's such an oddity here! The neighbors now know about this tradition, and though not all participate, some do. I stay back and observe, while the moms and kids in pointy hats take the lead, shouting doce ou travessura ("trick or treat") louder than any Americans I remember. In the U.S., ringing a doorbell is enough, but here, the front gates are bigger, and it's harder to hear inside, hence the need to shout. Sometimes the group knocks on many doors, greeted only by nervous barking dogs. When a door finally opens, the excitement of the treat must be even sweeter for the kids. Some neighbors, having known the number of children in advance, prepared a goody bag for each one. This year, one gave out ice pops, a welcome surprise in the heat.
One more difference about trick-or-treating on the streets here is that the cockroaches you encounter here are real and not decorative. And they fly!
Though I know my former-student had done a good job explaining the tradition to her neighbors, I imagine some must wonder why they should provide candy for someone else's kids, and it's likely that others abstain for religious reasons. But those that do take part are amused and curious, and some with little kids will likely join the party next year.
Back at the house, there's a big cauldron filled with candy that gets divided among the kids, lest any feel disappointed in the lack of loot from the neighbors. Everyone takes off their mask or ears and has some dessert, and my apple crisp is always a big hit. All in all, it's lots of fun!
Though I'm quiet and stay on the sidelines, I like to try and show friends, neighbors, and students that Halloween isn't only about witches. Last year I was an elegant tree, and this year I dressed up as the Saint Mary's River, complete with glow-in-the-dark luminescent algae (I'm weird, I know!). For a school event, I threw on gold colors and patterns and became a Gustav Klimt painting. In a world of conformity, where there are so many witches, I can try to glimmer and inspire creative alternatives.
My conversation class, after discussing what they knew about Halloween, watched a video about its history and a video about the legend of the jack-o-lantern. They learned a few new words and pondered and practiced explaining a few ideas. We then went to the library's maker space, where I had set up a pumpkin-carving activity. The Irish, who brought this tradition to the United States, found North American pumpkins better for carving than potatoes, beets, and turnips. In the same way, I thought a watermelon might be a South American alternative. I also picked up a few pumpkins; though small, they were the biggest I could find. The students loved the challenge and, scarfing down candy and wearing improvised costumes with things I had brought, they worked in teams to bring their produce to life.
Many Brazilians--and Americans, too--either ignore Halloween altogether, or participate without knowing much about it. I think it's important to look at our history and think about why we do what we do, and ask ourselves if its still worth doing, or if it could be done better. Many aspects of Halloween have changed over time and have a completely different meaning today. What used to be a spooky legend about a stingy dude whose soul was left to roam the earth by light of a turnip-lantern has now become a collaborative art challenge whose results draw in likes on social media. Different from in the Northern Hemisphere, the final product is only enjoyed for a day or two here. Hot weather attracts bugs and speeds decay, so leaving a pumpkin on a doorstep is impossible. Now, having done it once, I would re-think if and how to go about this project next year, in a way that is less wasteful. (There will be watermelon juice and toasted pumpkin seeds in my house!)
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| Pumpkin art by the amazing Jessica Penney (and this one was just a warm-up!) |
I enjoy the merging of cultures that Halloween and other celebrations bring, and hope it can help point people towards greater mutual understanding and empathy. I also enjoy the excuse to step outside the normal padrão that is expected here, and express myself through surprising colors and textures. Though I'm not at all into witchcraft, I am comfortable being the only non-witch at the party, dazzling others with sparkle and kindling their imagination with a story about my costume. With Halloween or Carnival or any cultural event, it's important to know your history, interpret it in a modern context, think about your neighbor, and then decide if and how to take part. This will look different for everyone, and that's part of the beauty. Whatever we decide to do, though, let's learn to do it well!
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